Portugal 2016

I have to say that apart from Fatima, Portugal was never on my radar, however after visiting this country for the first time, I have learnt so much about its ancient and interesting history. The population of 10.3 million people is 90% Roman Catholic, a big change from our earlier stop in the predominately Muslim city of Dubai. This area was originally inhabited by neanderthals, and later invaded by Romans in 219 BC. Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in Western Europe. Mind boggling! Portugal produces 45% of the world's cork production. In shops here you can buy cork handbags, hats, shoes, and even postcards make of cork!

Coimbra

Our first stop in Portugal was to Coimbra, the original capital city during the years 1131-1255. What a delightful old city, surrounded by a bustling university population. The university is internationally renowned and attracts many overseas students, and has one of the oldest European universities (founded in 1290).

Oak tree site of Fatima apparitions

Only a one hour drive south was the city of Fatima, put on the map after The Virgin Mary first appeared above an oak tree to three young shepherd children in 1917 - the apparitions continued once a month for 6 months. During the final apparition, the 'Miracle of the Sun' phenomenon was witnessed by thousands of others, both in Fatima and surrounding areas. The oak tree where the apparitions occurred is still standing and Murray and I couldn't resist having our photo taken beside it. The Fatima sanctuary is a huge area that attracts about 4 million pilgrims a year. Inside the Basilica are the tombs of the 3 shepherds. People from all over the world come to Fatima hoping for a miraculous cure for health ailments. 

Next stop was Obidos where we visited within the walled city. The buildings date back to around 715 AD, although the current buildings were constructed in the 14th Century. Quaint cobblestoned streets and whitewashed buildings made for picturesque photos. Our guide Julian informed us about the local alcoholic cherry liquor called Ginja de Odidos - it is traditionally served with chocolate. Samples of the liquor are served in tiny chocolate cups for anyone willing to part with €1. It was delicious, and if I had any room in my suitcase I would have loved to take some to share with Kim in Copenhagen. Sorry Kim! 

Peter and Murray in Obidos

Lisboa (we know it as Lisbon) has been the capital of Portugal since 1255 and has a most interesting history, but far too much to cover here. It was from this port that Vasco de Gama sailed to India in 1497 and opened up that sea route, and Lisbon prospered exponentially as a result of sea trade with other countries. We saw Vasco de Gama's tomb in the beautiful Santa Maria church in Belém (Lisbon) today. That evening we experienced a traditional FADO cultural evening, serenaded by 4 FADO singers whilst dining in the former stables and cellar of a 17th Century palace. 

Jen in Cascais

Only about 20 minutes drive west out of Lisbon, first following along the north side of the Tagus River until it meets the Atlantic Ocean, we passed through the town of Estoril and stopped at the pretty seaside town of Cascais. It was spitting rain during our visit, so not the best time to visit the seaside! This was the favoured summer holiday resort for Portuguese royalty (before Portugal became a republic in 1910). Also unbeknown to me, Portugal remained neutral during WW11, and so Kings and Queens from most Europeans countries fled to Portugal for sanctuary, and in particular Cascais, where they enjoyed the seaside location in their royal enclaves! The neutrality status also benefitted spies during the war, and many of them lived and traded their secrets in Lisbon and Estoril. "During World War II, Lisbon, as a neutral city, was full of spies. In fact, secret police, captains of industry, bankers, prominent Jews, writers and artists, escaped POWs and black marketeers filled the city's cafes, hotels, casino and bars. Ian Fleming (then a British agent who came as part of Operation Golden Eye) was a young employee at the British Consulate. He would often work at the Estoril Casino, as Estoril became the refugee destination for European aristocracy from the war. These aristocrats included six royal European families that made Estoril their exile destination. The Casino was a nexus of espionage, as spies and deposed royals played at the famed Casino’s tables. It was here that Fleming wrote the first part of Casino Royale, centered on the legendary figure of James Bond." (http://www.insideportugaltravel.com/news-a-ideas/story-ideas/10409-when-james-bond-came-to-portugal.html)

Sintra

After trying the local cuisine of Grilled Sardines and Portuguese Chicken in Cascais, we took another short drive to the ancient mountain village of Sintra, where Roman artefacts dating back to 1st - 2nd Century BC (around the time of Caesar and Octavius) have been found - the area is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We did a tour of the Palace of Sintra, inhabited by royalty from 15th to late 19th Century, and marvelled at the tiling, ceilings and chapel that dates back to the 14th Century. The view to the misty mountain in the distance was so pretty.

As we were driving around Portugal, it was stork nesting season, and young chicks were in most nests - but we could mainly see the adults. The birds seemed to nest in groups atop a row of electricity poles. Amazing. 

The weather was glorious on our first few days, fine, warm and sunny with clear blue skies. Rain detracted from our morning tour of Lisbon city,  but thankfully the weather had cleared in time for us to enjoy the afternoon sightseeing around the seaside and mountain areas away from Lisbon. 

Portuguese Tarts

Last but not least, I discovered a few years ago (whilst travelling around the USA) that I liked the flaky pastry and smooth custard of Portuguese tarts. However, to eat a Portuguese tart in Portugal is something else again! (A bit like having a Danish pastry in Denmark!). I had a Portuguese tart with my coffee to finish off my breakfast, and often a second tart for morning tea for the first 2 days in Portugal ... Well, they are very small tarts after all!