Machu Picchu, PERU 2019

For me, one of the highlights of our trip to South America (besides catching up with our American friends on the cruise) was visiting Machu Picchu. To get there from Santiago, Chile, Jenny, Peter, Murray and I flew to Lima, the capital of Peru, and then another flight to Cuzco. See travel details on the photo above. We were met by our tour guide and driver, and the 4 of us were driven to our San Augustin Hotel in Urubamba, nestled in the foothills of the Andes Mountains in Sacred Valley. 

Our first view of Sacred Valley

Traditional wool dying

We were taken on some tours including a visit to Chinchero where we saw local women demonstrating how they dyed alpaca wool using local plants, and how they weaved their garments. We also saw a re-creation of how the local lived during the Inca period, and of the crops they harvested - what an amazing variety of corn alone, let alone quinoa etc. 

Varieties of corn

Traditional Inca crops - corn, quinoa, squash, varieties of beans

Peruvian Dancer on Vistadome Train 

On our last day in Sacred Valley we were driven to Ollantaytambo train station for our Vistadome train trip to the town of Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo. The Vistadome train was great in that we could see out of the side windows as well as much of the roof - beautiful scenery - river rushing on its way to the Amazon, snow on the Andes, sections of the ancient walking track to Machu Picchu - it takes 4 days to walk it from Ollantaytambo - it took us 1.5 hours in the train. 

On the way home a local Peruvian dancer entertained us, and we were treated with a fashion parade that showcased local beautiful garments woven with baby alpaca wool.

The stones used in Inca buildings used for spiritual purposes or for their royalty were built using no mortar. These stones were cut so precisely, and wedged so closely together, that a credit card could not be inserted between them. Peru is a seismically unstable country—both Lima and Cusco have been leveled by earthquakes—and Machu Picchu itself was constructed atop two fault lines. When an earthquake occurs, the stones in an Inca building are said to “dance” or bounce through the tremors and then fall back into place. Without this building method, many of the best known buildings at Machu Picchu would have collapsed long ago. (https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/top-10/peru/machu-picchu/secrets/)

After visiting Machu Picchu, it is not surprising that it is listed as one of the seven modern wonders of the world. 

Cuzco is also known as the Imperial City and declared a world heritage site by UNESCO. We visited the Koricancha temple which was an ancient Inca palace of the Sun God and the building was right opposite our Abittare Hotel. We visited the fortress of Sacsayhuaman  which is it an impressive example of income military architecture. We visited Kenko another archaeological site where the sun moon and stars were celebrated in Inca days 

 The Sacsayhuaman (also Saksaywaman or Saqsawaman, meaning ‘Royal Eagle’) fortress-temple complex lies at the northern edge of the former Inca capital Cuzco. Constructed during the reign of Pachacuti (1438-1471 CE) Huge blocks were quarried and shaped using nothing more than harder stones and bronze tools. Marks on the stone blocks indicate that they were mostly pounded into shape rather than cut. Blocks were moved using ropes, logs, poles, levers, and earthen ramps (telltale marks can still be seen on some blocks), and some stones still have nodes protruding from them or indentations which were used to help workers grip the stone. That rocks were roughly hewn in the quarries and then worked on again at their final destination is clearly indicated by unfinished examples left at quarries and on various routes to building sites. The fine cutting and setting of the blocks on site was so precise that mortar was not necessary. Finally, a finished surface was provided using grinding stones and sand.

Experimental archaeology has demonstrated that it was much quicker than scholars had previously thought to prepare and dress the stones used by the Incas. Even so, it would have taken many months to produce a single wall. The Incas also ensured that their blocks interlocked and the walls were sloped to maximise their resistance to earthquake damage. Time has proved their efficiency as 500 years of earthquakes have done remarkably little damage to Inca structures left in their complete state and the Sacsayhuaman is no exception.(https://www.ancient.eu/Sacsayhuaman/)

SOUTH AMERICA 2019 - EXCLUDING THE CRUISE AND MACHU PICCHU

Travel Ad that Nadia showed us

For several years we have looked at travel to South America, but for one reason or another (usually cost) it kept being put onto the back burner. Early in 2018, our friend Nadia turned up at our door with a great deal on a South America tour that she had just booked with another friend plus a relative of hers. It sounded fantastic. We passed the tour details to Jenny and Peter, and they liked the look of it too, and within 24 hours, we had agreed on a date in February 2019. I then shared the itinerary with American friends I had worked with for 2 years back in 2002-2003, and 10 of them ended up joining us for the cruise element of the trip. Jenny, Peter, Murray and I were the only ones who went on to do the additional 'Post Tour Extension' to Machu Picchu, and it was the highlight of the trip for me. 

So here goes…7 of us Aussies met in Sydney for the flight to Santiago, Chile (12.5 hours) where we were joined by 2 other Aussies, and then onto Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (4 hrs). Our tour included the local guides meeting us at airports, taking us to airports and assisting with check-in, and picking us up at our hotel for tours. We were very impressed with the high level of professionalism and knowledge of the South America Tourism tour guides (university trained), their punctuality and the cleanliness and newness of all tour vehicles. The drivers seemed very experienced on roads that often created many challenges! 

Favourite haunt in Copacobana

On arrival in Rio, the weather was delightfully balmy. We couldn't believe it when we pulled up at our first hotel, The Windsor Martinique, to find it was only 1/2 a block back from the main Copacabana Beach - a location that we had previously only ever heard about in songs or movies. It was surreal to walk down to the beach and just 'be' there and soak up the atmosphere. It was such a thrill, that we ended up going down there every evening for pre-dinner drinks and staying on for dinner. If you look to the back of the photo at left you will see Sugar Loaf Mountain. During the day we toured Rio - took the train up to Corcovado Mountain to touch the famous Christ the Redeemer Statue and then took the cable car up to Sugar Loaf Mountain overlooking Rio. 

We could see Sugar Loaf mountain from our beach cafe each evening, so it was great to go there and be able to look down on where we were staying in Copacabana. I have marked it in the photo on the left.

Within a 25 minute walk from our hotel was the beach made famous by the second most recorded song in history (second to the Beatles song 'Yesterday') called 'The Girl from Ipanema' recorded in 1962. Helo Pinheiro the girl of the song (now a lady in her 70's) said the  fame that resulted from the popularity of the song changed her life, and she went on to become a model. Once again, it seemed unbelievable to be in a place I'd heard so often in a song, and never dreamed I would get to see.

Girl from Ipanema still looking good at age 61

Girls on Tour: in front of the Girl From Ipanema Bar just down from the beach

Inside Pyramid-shaped Cathedral - Rio

A tour of Rio de Janeiro highlighted the area where the famous Rio Carnival was being held 2 weeks after our visit, and we had a visit to see the inside of the distinctive pyramid-shaped Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian. While it has 5,000 seats, it has standing room for 20,000. From memory, the carriage you can see in my photo at left was used for the Pope's visit to the country (Brazil has the largest population of Catholics in the world)

Christ the Redeemer - Rio

Our Aussie group 

Next stop was the impressive Iguazu Falls. They border Brazil and Argentina, and together they form the largest waterfall system in the world - we got to experience views from both countries. The Iguazu Falls stretch in width for 2,700m (1.7 mi), and vary in height between 60m (200 ft) and 82m (269 ft), making Iguazu Falls taller than Niagara Falls and twice as wide.  (https://www.gadventures.com.au/blog/iguazu-falls-argentina-vs-brazil/) - check out link for great photos of the Falls

Our boat went under the falls - a right royal dunking! On the Brazilian side

Iguazu Falls- Brazil 

Firstly, we enjoyed the Brazilian perspective, where we were blown away by the sheer breadth of the falls. We were even able to take a boat ride 'under' the falls - no escaping a drenching on that ride! 

Murray walking from our room to the lodge's dining room 

Hammock on our balcony

Murray Peter and Jen in the dining room

Our hotel for this adventure was a rainforest lodge, La Aldea De La Selva - it was a unique experience - our rooms had a balcony that overlooked a rainforest garden, complete with a hammock to enjoy the full extent of nature. 

I took this photo on the Argentina side - powerful and thunderous!

The next day we got to experience the Argentinian side of the falls - where you can view them from directly above. The water thundered down and it was simply amazing. The power of the water sent mist that wet anyone who got close - me included. My photos don't come close to doing the Falls justice! 

"Upon seeing Iguazu, the United States First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed, "Poor Niagara!" (which, at 50 m or 165 feet, are a third shorter). Often, Iguazu is also compared with Victoria Falls in Southern Africa, which separates Zambia and Zimbabwe. Iguazu is wider, but because it is split into roughly 275 distinct falls and large islands, Victoria has the largest curtain of water in the world" (Wikipedia). They really were spectacular.

When in Argentina - check out the Tango!

Next stop - the capital of Argentina. In Buenos Aires our Bristol Hotel was on the main Avenida 9 De Julio - just a few paces down from the Obelisk - an iconic landmark in the city. Some of you may have seen it as the centrepiece for the Opening Ceremony of the Summer Youth Olympics of 2018. When in Argentina, one must see a Tango show - after the show, we walked the few blocks back to our hotel and paused for a photo by the illuminated Obelisk.

Jen Peter Nadia and Murray on Caminito Street in La Boca - such a colourful area

There was so much to see in Buenos Aires - we thoroughly enjoyed our three days and  nights there. During the day we were taken on guided tours of the local sights including the colourful La Boca area near the port, the San Telmo area with its cobbled streets, the gobsmacking above-ground cemetery of Recoleta (we thought New Orleans was amazing - this was New Orleans on steroids I think my friend Jan said). This is where Eva Peron is supposedly buried in her family crypt.

Floralis Generica

One park we saw had a stainless steel flower with petals that open at sunrise and close at sunset - known as Floralis Generica.

Slums in Buenos Aires

Out on our travels we noticed this overflowing slum area, only minutes from one of the wealthiest neighbourhoods, and not too many blocks from the centre of the city. Like so many other countries, the government is struggling with the dilemma of how to deal with slum residential areas.

Murray in front of his favourite Argentina Soccer team's grounds - Boca Juniors - thanks for the photo Nadia

We took an optional tour of the Delta area which included a bus trip then a boat ride up north (see blue dot in photo on left) of Buenos Aires in an area where the only way to reach the houses is by boat (it reminded me of our friends' Cindy and Mikes place on a Bayou in New Orleans). Here, teachers and students reach the school by boat, and even the shop and gas hub is made accessible by boat (see photo below). There is no fresh water, so residents have to stock up on bottled water from the mainland for drinking. 

Shop accessible by boat

Jan's photo of Recoleta Cemetery taken from their hotel room overlooking the cemetery

If you looked at the photo above without reading the caption, I am sure you would agree it looks like a city skyline, when in fact it is a cemetery! It has been designed with a layout like a city, with over 4,000 above ground vaults, and numerous marble family mausoleums - many are still in use. 

In 2011, the BBC hailed this cemetery as one of the world's best, and in 2013, CNN listed it among the 10 most beautiful cemeteries in the world. (WIKI)

Another street in the cemetery

Regrettably, despite enjoying all other aspects of the Buenos Aires visit, our visit was slightly tarnished by pickpockets. Our Aussie tour group of 7 entered an ice cream shop to try a local favourite ice cream flavour that had been recommended to us several times - while we were busy trying to get the server to understand our selections, 2 local, well-dressed adult males helped themselves to Murray's iPhone which was zipped in his backpack on his back. 

After 3 hours at the police station, Murray had a police report which enabled him to submit a claim from our travel insurer for the cost of replacing the iPhone. (Thankfully, once we got home, we submitted our claim, and the total cost of the iPhone was paid out). Murray dusted himself off and put the sorry episode behind him, as the next day we boarded our cruise ship for a 15 day cruise down the coast of South American (see previous blog for cruise photos), through the Patagonian Icefields and back up the western coast of South America to the port of San Antonio, where we disembarked for our 2 night stopover in Santiago, the capital of Chile. 

On the completion of our cruise, we were driven to Santiago. From our Luciano K's Hotel's roof top bar, we had a birds eye view of the many bare-breasted women leading the history-making march for International Women's day parade on March 9th. "Workers, mothers, students, grandmothers, babies and children, of all ethnicities, social strata and sexual orientations joined for the same cause: A just society, in which women do not differ from men just because of their sex. "(Article from Chile Today newspaper). Reportedly about 190,000 marched for the cause.

San Francisco Church over 400 years old

True to form, our tour guide met us punctually the following morning for a tour of Santiago. We saw the San Francisco Church which was consecrated in 1622 - the mind boggles to see buildings over 400 years old. The church has withstood numerous earthquakes - repairs to damage from the 2010 earthquake can be seen in my photo above, along with some information of earthquakes in this area. 

Climbing to the top of San Cristobel Hill - for a panoramic view of Santiago. Nadia took this photo of Murray ascending, and of me taking a photo of Peter

We witnessed the changing of the Guard at the Presidential Palace. That is Jen to the left of the guy in red - she is in blue, taking a photo with her iPhone.

We wandered around the bustling Plaza de Armas Square and escaped into the quiet haven of the Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral.

From Santiago we flew to Lima for a connecting flight to Cuzco, Peru. I'll leave Peru, and our visit to Machu Picchu, for the next blog.