Time stands still for no man (or woman!), so it is goodbye Florida, and hello Georgia. I had seen a comment that a road trip of the USA should include a visit to the Okefenokee Swamp Park in Georgia. Okefenokee - try saying that after a few wines! I did some research and learnt that the swamp forms the headwaters of the Suwannee and St Mary Rivers. It is the largest 'blackwater' swamp in North America: a 438,000-acre (1,770 km2), peat-filled wetland that straddles the Georgia/Florida border (wikipedia). The term 'blackwater' comes from the release of tannins in plant mulch that turn the water the colour of tea.
To our dismay as we turned into the park, the road was blocked off. We straddled the highway while I rang the office - we were directed to drive back a few miles until we saw a dirt road leading up and over a railway line. Murray was upset as he had washed the RV from top to bottom in the days beforehand. Thankfully no vehicles were coming in the opposite direction as the dirt road was only just wide enough for our RV, and there was no room on either side of the road for any vehicle to pass.
As well as the usual critters of birds, snakes, spiders, turtles and alligators (yes, we saw them all), the swamp is also a critical habitat for the Florida Black Bear (a smaller breed than their northern relatives). Our guide said a Florida panther had been sighted - they are a tawny brown colour, and are a subspecies of cougar that roam the Everglades in Florida. Some panthers were believed to have been released to the wild many years ago. We did not see any bears or panthers!
![]() |
Boat ride through the swamp - the water was like a mirror
|
![]() |
Pretty water lilies and sleeping alligators abounded
|
![]() |
I climbed a 90' tower to get this photo of the boardwalk and stream below
|
The critter that did make its presence felt most was the nasty yellow fly (also known as the Yellow Deer fly). The shady leaf canopy in the swamp is an ideal habitat for this fly, and I was fair game. During our one-hour guided boat tour, I got numerous bites, despite actively swatting them. Apparently insect repellent doesn't deter them much. That evening I was happy to have some apple cider vinegar and tea tree oil on hand to relieve the itching.
![]() |
After the boat ride we took a 45 minute steam train ride
|
In previous centuries the swamp was home to American Indians and early European settlers. We saw remnants of Indian burial mounds, moonshine stills, a Turpentine processing plant, log carts and primitive cabins. The yellow weed you can see in the photo here is St John's Wort - used today for depression. We also saw lots of wild blackberry bushes and many other wild herbaceous plants - too many to recall.
The swamp experience was nothing to write home about. I think we were spoilt with our special swamp adventure with Cindy and Mike staying in their cabin on a bayou off Lake Ponchartrain in New Orleans. See blog entry for May 2012 http://warwarekrvusa.blogspot.com/2012/05/new-orleans-2012.html. That was spooky!