Saturday, May 7, 2011

From Casino to Ranch to River

Escalante, Utah
Riverside, near Spokane, Washington
Pecan Grove, Texas
Friend's Ranch, North Dakota
Favourite: Audubon Lake, North Dakota
Seaside Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia, Canada
State Park, California
Utah
Friend's Farm Fordyce, Arkansas
700 acre Ranch, Oregon
Current site, Oregon

One of the simple pleasures at the end of each travel day is arriving at a new campground. I guess the thrill could be sort of aligned with the excitement of moving into a new home - only our home is already set up! So for us it is usually all about the surroundings, as the amenities are fairly consistent - the only amenity variations usually relate to how many cable channels you get and how strong the wifi is. We choose some campgrounds for convenience en route, nature (trees, gardens, river, beach or animals), amenities (cable, wifi) or simply because it is one of our club campgrounds & we get 50% discount.

Three nights ago we were in a campground connected to a Casino. It was centrally located which is unusual for a start, as most campgrounds are on the outskirts of towns or in isolated areas such as State or National Parks. It was within a few metres of a department store and the Casino's restaurant. Two nights ago we were on a 700 acre ranch, overlooking a reservoir and surrounded by cattle. Our current site is right on a swiftly flowing river - a beautiful view - and within walking distance of the town. Tomorrow night we will be right on the Columbia River in Portland Oregon, looking across the water to the state of Washington. I have provided a selection of campgrounds photos for you to see how they differ. Except for the photo with the elk, you should be able to spot our RV in every one.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Delayed farewell to Salt Lake City


That's our campground in Salt Lake City - we'll miss the mountains
These 2 dogs live in the RV with their owners - pretty sunset walk
Great Salt Lake
Salt produced from the lake
Driving to Nevada
Murray taking photos of 3 girls on the Salt Flats
Fordyce on the Cottonbelt Salt Flats
Creating a map of Australia on the Salt Flats (didn't forget Tassie!)

The stunning snow capped mountains were about to become a thing of the past as we were driving out of our campground in Salt Lake City. One last stop to say goodbye to the campground hosts, and we would be on our way. As Murray bounded back to the RV to drive us westwards, he noticed our right front tyre was looking a bit flat. He checked it with his gauge, and sure enough, it had a lot less pressure than it had only a few hours earlier when he tested it. Darn. Being a Sunday, the main tyre businesses were closed, but fortunately a truck stop was able to help us out. It turned out some dust or ice must have affected the valve after Murray checked it early in the morning, but by the time it was checked, and re-checked, it was found to be ok and there was no puncture. However, as it all took time, we ended up checking back into the same campground.

The next day we headed west for the Nevada border. Before we got there, on our right for many miles, stretched the Great Salt Lake itself. We drove past the big salt producing mine and reached the Bonneville Salt Flats where the speed race for the 2005 movie 'The World's Fastest' Indian' was filmed.

Once you pass into Nevada, as well as having to turn your clocks back one hour (we are now on Pacific Time) you notice most towns have a casino. One dusty little town had a service station, a few houses, and a casino - that was about it. We drove on to the city of Elko - it has a population of about 17,000 and it has 5 casinos. We found one that had its own RV park, right in a central location. It cost less than half the nightly rate of the other two full service campgrounds, yet it had 30+ cable channels and free wifi. The restaurant in the casino is well patronised, and as luck would have it, today is their TBone steak dinner special. A 10 oz T Bone with choice of potato (baked, mashed, or fries), vegetables, baked garlic, and salad for a whopping $7.99. Afterwards we checked out the slot machines (pokies for us Aussies), and when Murray had won his $5 back with $2 extra, we went home.

We aren't noticing as many RV's on the roads this year - I think I may have already mentioned this. Instead of losing money, the campgrounds seem to be making up for it by accepting a lot of permanents who work on projects such as road works or pipeline construction in the vicinity. Owning a caravan/trailer or motorhome, workers can follow the job around and take their home with them.

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Views from our RV

Setting sun reflecting on mountain
Uh oh - storm coming our way
Yep - they were right - we got rain and snow flurries
View of snow capped mountains through front window this morning

Just thought I would share with you a few photos I took yesterday and this morning showing the view from inside (too cold outside!) our RV parked in a campground about 10 minutes north of Salt Lake City CBD.

Friday, April 29, 2011

A long drive to Salt Lake City, Utah

Scenery en route Cheyenne to Salt Lake City

Windiest & most trucked route!
Reminiscent of Monument Valley
Great place for a wind farm
Scenery through the window
Royal Wedding (courtesy thedailybeast.com)

After leaving Cheyenne (where Murray had to dust snow off the petrol pump at the bowser), we planned to drive 330 miles/530km to the tiny town of Fort Bridger, Wyoming. However when we arrived at 5pm, we learnt the campground wasn't reconnecting the water supply until the weekend. So we continued on another 2 hrs to Salt Lake City, Utah. At a total distance of 440 miles/708km, it was not only our longest day of driving in our 5 years of RV travel, but it was the windiest drive, with sudden gusts having to potential to push you off the road. Instead of travelling at our usual 65 mph/105kph, we were forced to travel about 20 mph slower. It also seemed to have the highest number of trucks we had seen consistently on a single route, but it was never a problem as the divided highway was 2 lanes each way. We have noticed we aren't seeing so many RV's on the roads this time. Perhaps the higher fuel prices and the ongoing financial situation are the main contributing factors, along with the odd weather patterns. The death toll from the latest tornado has passed 300. Scary.

Despite being a long day, it was a very interesting drive as there was lots of snow en route, and some interesting rock formations - very similar to Utah. Considering we were entering that state next, we weren't too surprised. We pulled into Laramie for a coffee break and lucked on a wonderful cafe where we were able to park right at the front door. It not only offered free wifi (so I could email the photos I had just taken of the snow), but it also had an expresso coffee machine, so we enjoyed the change from filtered coffee, and shared a delicious slice of carrot cake.

The last 50 miles into Salt Lake City were very scenic with pretty snow scenes. Although we were tired, the time just flew, as we were thoroughly enjoying the unfolding views. We were glad to see them capitalising on the notoriously windy area, by establishing numerous wind farms.

Snow flurries seem to be dogging our trail on this trip. Our high temperature today was 5 C and we reached that around 11am. It has already dropped to 3 C and it is 1.30pm. Murray & I stayed up until 6am this morning - I was watching the Royal Wedding - who doesn't love a fairytale - and he was listening to the Aussie football on the laptop (with one eye on the TV I am sure). He thought Posh Spice looked pretty smart, and some reports suggest Kate's sister Pippa was a great runner-up to the bride in the beauty stakes. What a fabulous spectacle, whether you are a monarchist or not.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Terry Bison Ranch, Wyoming


Sheriff checking Murray's credentials
Bison welcome to Wyoming
Camel following our train
2 day old Bison calf
Storms looming
Hills behind our campground 'whited-out' - our RV in foreground
Same scene as above, 4 hrs later
Before we left the tiny town of Seibert, Colorado, Murray decided to take a walk around the town taking photos of the derelict buildings that were mere remnants of earlier days. Being a stranger in town, his photo-taking was reported to the local sheriff, who pulled up beside Murray and asked for his ID. It is a very rare occasion that he doesn't have his driver's licence on him, but this was one of them. He was escorted back to our RV so the sheriff could sight & phone in his Aus driving licence - which he did. Within minutes of the sheriff arriving, his deputy pulled up in front of our RV as well. He didn't want to miss the excitement. Obviously very bored I'd say! Thankfully the credentials checked out - yes, we were valid tourists, but we were left wondering just what is hidden in this tiny town of around 180 people that they have to be so vigilant and wary of strangers. Someone had phoned the 'strangers' presence in to the sheriff. The campground hosts came over to apologise, but we just ticked it up to another experience, and I will put an ankle ball & chain on Murray for future forays!

Putting that behind us, we headed west towards Denver, and caught a glimpse of the snow-capped Rocky Mountains. Only the loftiest peaks had snow left on them. We were pleased to veer north from the built-up traffic around Denver and enter into the vast 'cowboy' plains of Wyoming. Our chosen campground is right on the Colorado/Wyoming border, and we were glad to pull in, as the snow flurries were increasing. Overnight we had our first-ever experience of the water lines freezing as we woke up to find we had no water coming into the RV from the shore water. We switched to our own water pump and fresh water holding. Murray gently disconnected the hose and found it was frozen where it connected with the RV. After waiting until after sunrise and letting the air temperature warm up, it was all back to normal. However, lesson learnt. Tonight we will disconnect the water hose before we go to bed, and reconnect in the morning. While we are staying at one of our favourite fishing spots in North Dakota we rely on our water pump for weeks at a time, so a few nights here & there are no problem at all.

Our current campground in located within the Terry Bison Ranch Resort. We thought it would offer a different experience as they have train rides out to their bison herd, and have a 'Senators Restaurant' on site where you can order your choice of lean buffalo meat. We took the midday train ride out to see the bison and passed some of their other animals - camels, ostriches, horses and llamas. There was a baby bison only 2 days old - it was born on Easter Sunday. If you are quick you will pick him out in the video below. En route we saw prairie dogs peeping out of their holes, rabbits, canada geese and a whole flock of red-winged blackbirds. They are smaller than our aussie blackbirds, and it is not until they fly off that you see a bright red triangle under each wing. Very pretty. Fortunately it was fine weather when we boarded the little train, but while we were out watching the bison, we could see ominous clouds looming in the distance, and by the time we got back to the campground, the snow flurries had 'whited-out' the distant hills. A few hours later, the sun was out, and everything looked clean & bright. Dinner was very pleasant: Murray had bison ribs and I had bison sirloin. Nice & tender.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Easter in Colorado

Happy Easter from Berlin
Our basket left by 'Easter Bunny'
Uh oh - snow on roadside - must be cold out there
Mansion overlooking corn fields

I wonder what stories this old place could tell...
Main Street of Seibert, Colorado
Old building in the main street

The Easter Bunny found his way to our RV in this tiny town of Seibert, Colorado this morning. Totally unexpected, we found a cute little easter basket on our step when we stepped outside this morning! The campground owners must have left it there for us which was very thoughtful. While visiting a yummy chocolate shop with Kim in Berlin, I saw a cute little easter gift for Murray, and it survived the trip home to Australia and then over to the USA. I'm just amazed that I remembered where I had hidden it in the RV when we unpacked.

Yesterday was Easter Saturday and we drove up the centre and across the west of the state of Kansas - also known as the Wheat State, and famous for it's quality steak. The scenery was ever changing, and we enjoyed seeing the old, dilapidated homesteads and the contrasting mansions overlooking the corn fields. We were en route to Colorado, but even before we crossed the Kansas/Colorado border and gained an hour (switched from central time to mountain time), the weather had cooled. In fact there were several large patches of snow on the side of the road.

We arrived at our destination of Seibert, a tiny town of less than 200 people. We only stopped here as it was the right driving distance for us from the previous stop. The campground is only basic, but offered all hook ups (electricity, water, sewer) plus cable TV and wifi for $13.60 a night, so we checked in for 2 nights. Mad if you don't! The trees here are still fairly bare - some early spring foliage, but not much as yet. Given the high is only going to be 8 C today, and it got down to -1 last night, I can understand why the trees are still in winter mode. Not to mention the snow flurries we had this morning. The locals may not have been too thrilled, but we enjoyed watching the snow flakes fall. Hope you all had a nice weekend and celebrated the true meaning of Easter.

Friday, April 22, 2011

Al Capone's Haunt - Hot Springs, Arkansas

Steam escaping in street from underground hot spring
Easter Display in Arlington Hotel
Al Capone Suite
Hotel Porter making sure Murray didn't steal from Al Capone's suite!
Murray turns the Tommy gun on Al Capone

We were farewelled from Fordyce by Sandy & Joe Bill just after a Rotary lunch where Joe Bill's brother (John Benton) led everyone in a rousing local railroad song. See video below. Joe Bill is in yellow shirt and Sandy the black with her arm on his shoulder. We then had a very pretty 2 hr drive west to Hot Springs, Arkansas.

The natural thermal spring waters that provide water heated to 147 F/64 C created today's popular spa city of Hot Springs. Long before the white man arrived in 1673, American Indians were bathing in the warm, mineral water for its healing properties. As you drive along the street you can see the steam escaping into the air. Bath houses became popular, and the main street became known as Bathhouse Row. After the civil war, illegal gambling took hold and attracted notorious gangsters like Al Capone. Now gamblers have it all legalised in Las Vegas. At the end of Bathhouse Row stands the magnificent Arlington Hotel, where Al Capone had his own suite - Room 443 if you want to check it out. In the entry foyer they have set out an Easter Display which I thought I would share with you!

On the 4th floor is the original Arlington bath house, and Cindy & Mike had recently booked in for 'the works' and highly recommended it to us. As it is something neither of us had ever experienced, we arranged to have the same treatment. Women on one side, men on the other. First you have a 20 min soak in a private hot, mineral bath, followed by a sauna. Then you are wrapped in towels soaked in the hot mineral water and left lying quietly for 20 mins. Very relaxing. From there you have a rinse in the shower before enjoying a 20 minute Swedish massage. Most enjoyable.

The day before, we had got permission and checked out Al Capone's suite - it gets rented out as a special request hotel room, and we were fortunate it was not occupied the day we visited. With his appetite whetted, Murray decided to check out the Gangster Museum down the street. He enjoyed learning about the gangster history as it was played out in this city. That was our 3rd visit to Hot Springs.

Return to Fordyce

Mike's Number Plate - Gotta love it!
Our Priveleged Park at Meadolark Farm
View from front door of house to their Lake
Trish, Sandy & Wanda break for morning tea
Ruth proudly displaying her turkey photos
That's one BIG male turkey

After saying farewell to friends Cindy & Mike (and taking a photo of his 'Retired' number plate') we drove south past Little Rock to pull up in front of friends' Sandy & Joe Bill's lovely home in Fordyce, Arkansas. In the photos above I have tried to show you the setting, with our RV parked at their front door surrounded by tall Loblolly pine trees, and with the lake to the rear of us. You can constantly hear birds chirping, and we saw numerous red cardinals, bluebirds and red-wing blackbirds. It is a busy time for our friends as it is Festival time, and Joe Bill is the chief organiser. Sandy works in the festival HQ each day along with Wanda, and they sell over $1000 worth of Tshirts a day. I was able to spirit them away for a coffee break though, and we left Murray & Joe Bill to mind the HQ.

While I was sitting with them in the HQ, a young married woman, Ruth, came in to buy a Tshirt. She was dressed from head to toe in camouflage, and I jokingly asked if she was heading out on a duck hunt. She gently advised me that duck season was over, and it was now turkey hunting season. In fact, she had shot herself a magnificent turkey only a few days ago. She had the photos to prove it, and even gave me two as a souvenir. She proudly described how her turkey was a male, weighed 20lb and that she had killed it with a shotgun.