Goodbye Darwin, Hello Ballina

Darwin City from Fannie Bay
Darwin Wave Pool

L-R Back Row: Lincoln, Shae, Gemma, Lisa, Georgie

L-R Front Row: Bailey, Bridgette, Mark & I

Kate, Nick holding Rebecca, Anna, Me, Mark

Ballina Shelley Beach

My 10 days in Darwin went so fast, but it was wonderful to catch up with the family and familiarise myself with how the city is growing. I enjoyed my time weighing & packing beef jerky with my niece and nephew who have a family business in Darwin, as it gave me the opportunity to hear about their comings and goings.

My son Mark & I joined in two family dinners - the first one was held at my niece Rosie & Mark's home where I was living. In the photo you will also see Rosie's daughters Georgia & Bailey plus my other niece Bridgette (Rosie's sister), her other half Rob, their young son Lincoln and Bridgette's two daughters Gemma and Shae. Gemma also bought along her friend Lisa. As everyone had worked that day (except me) I made a spaghetti bolognaise to have with a tossed green rocket salad and garlic bread. What I pity I forgot to take the salad out of the fridge and didn't find it until everyone had gone home. Blame it on the tropics...

The second dinner was at my nephew Nick and his wife Karen's home. Their delightful daughter Rebecca and my 2 nieces Kate & Anna, Nick's sisters joined in the BBQ. Nick sells very good quality meat that he gets trucked up from down south, so the porterhouse steaks we had for dinner were top notch.

Finally it was time to say goodbye and leave Rosie knowing she only has 2 weeks before her baby is due. She will be glad to be able to walk instead of waddle! After my 3.5 hr flight from Darwin to Brisbane, Murray met me at the airport and we drove the 2 hrs south to Ballina. He had the B&B set up very comfortably and had even bought us a new full fridge as the B&B only had a small bar fridge which we found out very quickly last time that it was not big enough for us PLUS Murray's bait PLUS his fish catch! The next day we went for a drive around and then had a walk along the sea wall. I took a photo for you all so that you can have an idea of our environment.

Morning Walk, Darwin, Northern Territory

My Morning Walk Route

Encouraging Exercise

Beachside Fitness Station

Danger Sign for Box Jellyfish (click on photo to magnify and read the blurb)

Back to the city of my birth in the Top End of Australia. Darwin sure has grown into a sprawling tropical destination, and is home to my youngest son Mark (25 years old), 1 nephew, 4 nieces, 6 great-nieces and 1 great-nephew. I am staying in a very comfortable self-contained unit underneath one of my niece's house.

This morning I walked out her front gate, crossed the road and in less than a minute I was on a great exercise path that goes right along the Nightcliff beachfront. I was impressed with the efforts to encourage exercise - they had these neat little fitness stations complete with instructions on how to use the equipment. There were certainly a lot of people out taking advantage of the walking/cycling path and the beach itself. You have to be careful swimming in the sea between October and May here and in Queensland, as dangerous jellyfish deliver a nasty and sometimes fatal sting. Such is life in the tropics...when the humidity is the worst and the sea looks so inviting, the safest place to cool off is in your own swimming pool!

Home, Sweet Home

South Bank Brisbane
My son Benn at Coogee for lunch

School friends Liz & Sue with me in Alice Springs

Sun setting on a 'White Gum' tree

'White Gums' homestead

As I am typing this, I am immersed in the countryside of my youth - the red centre of Australia. The red dirt, the white trunked green/blue gum trees and the blue sky are colours so familiar they almost hurt. I am here in Alice Springs to attend the 80th birthday of the mum of my 'oldest' girlfriend - we met 46 years ago. Her parents had the only dairy farm in the area during the 'ten year drought' of 1956-1966 (I arrived in Alice in 1961 and left at the end of 1968) and my favourite times were the weekends spent on their dairy farm. Ah, memories - I was on the property yesterday and walked away from the throngs of family and special guests to just look around me and take in the 'aura'. A truly magical place of remembrance for me. Check out just one of the White Gum trees that they named their property after! Whilst here in Alice I stayed with another of my school friends, and also caught up with another two. It has been fun reminiscing about our life back then.

But I digress...after our usual 13 hour flight from Australia to Brisbane, my sister Loretta met us at the airport and whisked us through the early commute traffic to a hotel on the south of Brisbane. We then met up with my other sister Rose, brother Tracy and his son Greg and had champagne with lunch. How decadent. We knew to overcome jet lag we should stay up until night time, so although Murray succumbed and had a mini-sleep, Loretta and I took a lovely walk along the river on the south end of Brisbane city where they have created an artificial beach. Beautiful. The next day we put Murray on a plane to Melbourne and he caught up with his three kids and attended the football grand final. Sadly his team lost on the day.

My 93 year old mother was in fine form and happy to have me back home safely. Then it was time for lunch with 3 of my sisters and another brother and their spouses. So within 30 hours of arrival I had caught up with all of my family (except my Aunt in Ballina who I will see very soon).

Within 4 days I flew to Sydney and spent a fabulous day & evening with my son Benn, and my nephew Pete and his fiancee Sam who joined us for dinner. After I leave Alice Springs I will fly to Darwin (tomorrow in fact) and spend a week with my youngest son Mark. From Darwin I will join Murray in Ballina where we will stay in our B&B by the river for the next 6 months before returning to the USA and our 2 month RV trip to Alaska commencing 1 June.

Last Days in USA 2009

Turkish Coffee a La Badr
Vitamin Burst

Sunset LAX

Our last port of call before arriving back in Kansas City and putting the RV in mothballs for another 6 months was with some aussies in Omaha Nebraska. Wal and his wife Desleigh invited us to their home for dinner. We met their daughter Cartia and her Saudi Arabian friend, Badr. Another aussie colleague who had worked with Murray in the Embassy in DC was also there with her two daughters. After a delicious meal prepared by our hosts, Badr then treated us all to his native Turkish coffee served in special coffee cups from his own coffee pot and accompanied by plump, sticky dates from the King's crop. It was a most enjoyable evening and we were surprised to note it was midnight when we got back to our RV - the time just flew by - probably helped by a few champagnes with hibiscus flower floats!

Shortly after getting home I checked my phone and noticed I had missed a call from Qantas. They had rung to advise that our flight back to Australia on Thursday had been cancelled and we had to make alternative arrangements. We decided to go back the day before to enable us to meet previously made commitments.

As swine flu as already been rife in Australia and is now hitting the USA, we started taking some extra vitamins a week before our flight, hoping to build up our resistance to any bugs that may be lurking around the aircraft on our 14 hr flight home. It is only 2 hrs until we board our flight, so we will take one more walk around the terminal to get the red blood cells circulating before we settle onto our magic carpet ride home.

From Sunrise to Sunset, Nebraska

Sunrise Nebraska 7.44 am
Wounded Knee Memorial

American Indian Grave

Sunset Nebraska 8pm

In order to fit in all we had planned for today, we got up early enough to catch the sunrise in Valentine, Nebraska. Sadly cloud obscured the lower third of the horizon, but it was beautiful just the same. As we drove through the state we saw many herds of cattle, field after field of sunflower & corn crops as well as deer and two wonderful specimens of antelope. They were standing in a field beside the road, and unlike deer who run skittishly, the antelopes stood their ground. We were so busy admiring them as we drove past, and surprised that they didn't bolt, that I never got to take a photo of them.

Two hours after leaving Valentine we entered the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation in South Dakota. We found the Memorial to the Lakota Sioux killed in the massacre at Wounded Knee that occurred on 29 December 1890. The graveyard sits above a hill just outside the town of Wounded Knee and can be accessed via several dirt roads. Two local American Indian males stood at the entrance to the graveyard and offered locally crafted dreamcatchers for sale - we didn't buy one but made a donation instead. At the base of the hill was the Wounded Knee Visitors Center & Memorial, but it looked deserted so we headed south and back to Nebraska.

It was a very hot afternoon and we were grateful to have effective airconditioning in our RV. After checking into our campground in Alliance, Nebraska, we laid low until after dinner and the temperatures had cooled somewhat. We took a walk up the street and almost 12 hours after taking the sunrise photo this morning, I took a sunset photo to finish off the day.

We have just learnt that Patrick Swayze lost his 20 month battle with cancer. May he RIP.

Valentine, Nebraska

Main Street of Valentine, Nebraska
Snapping Turtle
Bison Herd

Wild Turkeys

Rolling 'Hills' of Nebraska

Nestled in the grass covered sandhills of central north Nebraska is the city of Valentine. With a population of just under 3000 people, in 2007 National Geographic Adventure billed it amongst the top 10 wilderness town/cities. In its day, it was the stamping ground of Sioux, Ponca and Pawnee Indians. In July of 2005 it was almost destroyed by a damaging wind storm, and in July 2006 a fire nearly destroyed it.

We stayed 3 days just on the outskirts of the city and our arrival was greeted by the strong smell of cow manure. It reminded us of Dodge City. We jumped on our bikes and rode up the main street to check it out. Not a real happening place on a Saturday afternoon, but I had fun browsing in the Western Wear store, a gift shop and a craft store. On Sunday we walked a mile to attend the local church. On our way home, we walked down a residential street and chatted to two lads who had just returned from catching some trout in the nearby river. They had also bought home a snapping turtle to cook. They are the largest fresh water turtle in the US and are quite agressive using their sharp edged jaws. Apparently their agility to thrust out their head rivals the capability of a rattlesnake strike. Yikes.

On our last morning we decided to take a drive 5 miles east of Valentine to visit the nearby Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge. It is located on the beautiful Niobrara River, famous for canoeing enthusiasts. We got there just on 8am and disturbed some wild turkeys and enjoyed watching a herd of bison. We then headed north towards South Dakota, and marvelled at acre after acre of rolling grassy hills. They are actually the largest tract of stablised sand dunes in the western hemisphere and are held in place by the grass that covers them.

Final Days of Summer, North Dakota

Autumn leaves - time to farewell North Dakota
Inside St Mary's Catholic Church, Hague, ND

Altar Detail

Avalyn at St Mary's Old Cemetery

Iron Cross Grave Marker

This is the 3rd time we have driven away from North Dakota at the end of a summer of enjoyable RV adventures, and the 3rd time I have felt quite nostalgic as we drive the last few miles. When we first arrive the fields are bright green (or yellow (canola/sunflowers) or blue (flax)), but by the time we leave, the sunflowers' bright yellow faces are all but gone and most of the other crops are harvested. The rippling golden wheat fields are all mown down like crew cuts. Green grasses have lost their vibrancy of summer and many trees are starting to show fall colors.

Our friends Avalyn & Wes were fishing down near the South Dakota border, so we called in and spent our last 2 North Dakota nights in a campsite near them. Murray and Wes went out fishing and between the two of them caught the combined bag limit of 10 walleye. Nice too. While they were fishing, Avalyn and I drove to the nearby city of Linton (pop. approx 1000) for lunch, then drove 23 miles south to visit the historic St Mary's Catholic Church and iron cross cemetery in Hague. The church was built in 1929 after the earlier one burnt down. It was very beautiful inside. The cemetery was open for business from 1885 to 1914. The iron crosses were created by the German-Russian pioneers that settled in the area. The German influence is still very evident in the language, business names and local restaurant fare. We had an interesting day which ended with a tasty fish fry for dinner.

Rugby, Geographical Center of North America

Geographical Center North America

"Northern Lights"

Ornate Heater

Clifford 8' 7" (Photo courtesy: ameshistoricalsociety.org)

Some people may associate the name 'rugby' with a football game played back as early as the ancient Greeks, but here in North Dakota, it is a city famed as the geographical center of the North American continent. Not to be confused with the geographic center of the contiguous USA located in South Dakota, or the geographic center of the 48 states (ie omitting Alaska & Hawaii) being in Kansas. Phew! Glad I made that clear.

Anyway, in this city of roughly 3,000 folks they have a few interesting tourist attractions. The first and most obvious being a stone obelisk marking the 'center' at the junction of Hwys 2 & 3. Amazing to think this is the center of the USA and Canada. A few yards down the road from it is a tower built in tribute to the Northern Lights phenomenon, commoner in Alaska but sometimes seen this far south. What draws most crowds though is the Prairie Village & Museum, a historically re-created village of the 1800's with artifacts from the white settlers and the American Indians on display. Seeing the implements and buildings common to that time makes us grateful for the technology and luxuries we have today. North Dakota is known for its harsh winters, and this was bought home by the presence of a wood heater in every building, train car, and even in sleds for traveling across the snow. Most were just very basic, but others were very ornate. The museum had an area dedicated to locally born Clifford Thompson who was once listed as the world's tallest man. From parents of average height, he grew to 8ft 7". I'm sure he would be the star of a basketball team if he were alive today.

Devils Lake, North Dakota

Map of North Dakota. Red routes 2009. Yellow route 2007/2008. Circle current location
Grahams Island on Devils Lake

Raymond Sunset Fishing Devils Lake

Moon as sun sets

Campfire with Mark & Gen

Noughts & Crosses

Devils Lake, the town, was originally Sioux Indian land (they now own a large casino nearby) and was named after the largest natural body of water in the state of North Dakota. There is a lovely State Park located on Grahams Island surrounded by Devils Lake. We are staying at the campground here for 5 days, and fortunately, the weather has been glorious.

On our first full day here, the aunt & uncle (Almyra & Raymond) of a guy (Troy) we met at the ranch called in to visit. They both love to fish, so they picked us up and we headed to some rocks alongside the road across the lake. It was about an hour before sunset, and while those three fished, I clicked! The sunset was so beautiful. On one side of the road I had the sunset, and on the other side I had the moon. All three of them caught fish and they let us keep all the fillets which was nice of them. Another chap was fishing nearby, and he kindly contributed his catch to us as well. As well as the fish, Almyra and Raymond bought us some potatoes, onions & corn fresh from their garden. So thoughtful.

The next day after lunch, Mark, a family friend of Troy's and Mark's friend Gen called in to visit. They offered to take us for a drive around the area. I had invited them to stay to dinner, so I stayed back to set up for dinner and take a phone call from Australia and Murray joined them for a few hours. Within minutes of their return, the four of us were sitting outside sharing food, wine and coffee. The weather was delightful, so we lit our campfire and had the kuchen Gen bought for dessert. This area of North Dakota is renowned for its hunting (deer & pheasant) and Mark kindly gave us some trial sizes of game he had caught to try. There was a pack of several venison sausages, some ground antelope, antelope chops (de-boned) and venison tenderloin. Mark also offered us the use of an RV hook-up on his property. It seems that everywhere we go in this country, the locals are so friendly and generous. Each RVing adventure we undertake is a most enjoyable blend of scenic countrysides and wonderful people. No wonder we can't stop coming back each year.

This morning we got on our bikes and rode around the campground. We came across a clearing that had a noughts & crosses panel, so we stopped for a game. Then it was back home to turn on the BBQ and cook the antelope chops. Delicious. Tender and tasty. Thanks Mark!

Unforgivable Omission

Kim Born 21st August 1980

With Older Brother Benn

With Younger Brother Mark

With her Cat Bowie (& Peckle)

Celebrating her PhD Defence in London, Ontario 2007

With her mum & Darling Beautiful Aunty Ret Christmas 2008

My last blog entry elicited two comments: Firstly was that things must be tough if the most exciting event to write about involves an antenna. Secondly was a comment from my daughter. It so happens that the day I made the entry, 21st of August, was her 29th birthday. Yet I failed to even mention the 'momentous occasion' of her birth. So to make up for such a dastardly omission, I have decided to put some photos of her progression through life. I am sure she will kill me, but what the heck!

She is a geologist and is currently a Post Doctoral Fellow in the Earth Sciences Dept of the St Francis Xavier University in Antigonish, Nova Scotia. In November she takes up a post on the staff at the University of Copenhagen, Denmark. Visiting her is always an adventure as we get to see parts of the world we have never been before. Christmas in Copenhagen - hmmm, that sounds exciting. Not this year, but next year perhaps?