Last Days in USA 2009

Turkish Coffee a La Badr
Vitamin Burst

Sunset LAX

Our last port of call before arriving back in Kansas City and putting the RV in mothballs for another 6 months was with some aussies in Omaha Nebraska. Wal and his wife Desleigh invited us to their home for dinner. We met their daughter Cartia and her Saudi Arabian friend, Badr. Another aussie colleague who had worked with Murray in the Embassy in DC was also there with her two daughters. After a delicious meal prepared by our hosts, Badr then treated us all to his native Turkish coffee served in special coffee cups from his own coffee pot and accompanied by plump, sticky dates from the King's crop. It was a most enjoyable evening and we were surprised to note it was midnight when we got back to our RV - the time just flew by - probably helped by a few champagnes with hibiscus flower floats!

Shortly after getting home I checked my phone and noticed I had missed a call from Qantas. They had rung to advise that our flight back to Australia on Thursday had been cancelled and we had to make alternative arrangements. We decided to go back the day before to enable us to meet previously made commitments.

As swine flu as already been rife in Australia and is now hitting the USA, we started taking some extra vitamins a week before our flight, hoping to build up our resistance to any bugs that may be lurking around the aircraft on our 14 hr flight home. It is only 2 hrs until we board our flight, so we will take one more walk around the terminal to get the red blood cells circulating before we settle onto our magic carpet ride home.

From Sunrise to Sunset, Nebraska

Sunrise Nebraska 7.44 am
Wounded Knee Memorial

American Indian Grave

Sunset Nebraska 8pm

In order to fit in all we had planned for today, we got up early enough to catch the sunrise in Valentine, Nebraska. Sadly cloud obscured the lower third of the horizon, but it was beautiful just the same. As we drove through the state we saw many herds of cattle, field after field of sunflower & corn crops as well as deer and two wonderful specimens of antelope. They were standing in a field beside the road, and unlike deer who run skittishly, the antelopes stood their ground. We were so busy admiring them as we drove past, and surprised that they didn't bolt, that I never got to take a photo of them.

Two hours after leaving Valentine we entered the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation in South Dakota. We found the Memorial to the Lakota Sioux killed in the massacre at Wounded Knee that occurred on 29 December 1890. The graveyard sits above a hill just outside the town of Wounded Knee and can be accessed via several dirt roads. Two local American Indian males stood at the entrance to the graveyard and offered locally crafted dreamcatchers for sale - we didn't buy one but made a donation instead. At the base of the hill was the Wounded Knee Visitors Center & Memorial, but it looked deserted so we headed south and back to Nebraska.

It was a very hot afternoon and we were grateful to have effective airconditioning in our RV. After checking into our campground in Alliance, Nebraska, we laid low until after dinner and the temperatures had cooled somewhat. We took a walk up the street and almost 12 hours after taking the sunrise photo this morning, I took a sunset photo to finish off the day.

We have just learnt that Patrick Swayze lost his 20 month battle with cancer. May he RIP.

Valentine, Nebraska

Main Street of Valentine, Nebraska
Snapping Turtle
Bison Herd

Wild Turkeys

Rolling 'Hills' of Nebraska

Nestled in the grass covered sandhills of central north Nebraska is the city of Valentine. With a population of just under 3000 people, in 2007 National Geographic Adventure billed it amongst the top 10 wilderness town/cities. In its day, it was the stamping ground of Sioux, Ponca and Pawnee Indians. In July of 2005 it was almost destroyed by a damaging wind storm, and in July 2006 a fire nearly destroyed it.

We stayed 3 days just on the outskirts of the city and our arrival was greeted by the strong smell of cow manure. It reminded us of Dodge City. We jumped on our bikes and rode up the main street to check it out. Not a real happening place on a Saturday afternoon, but I had fun browsing in the Western Wear store, a gift shop and a craft store. On Sunday we walked a mile to attend the local church. On our way home, we walked down a residential street and chatted to two lads who had just returned from catching some trout in the nearby river. They had also bought home a snapping turtle to cook. They are the largest fresh water turtle in the US and are quite agressive using their sharp edged jaws. Apparently their agility to thrust out their head rivals the capability of a rattlesnake strike. Yikes.

On our last morning we decided to take a drive 5 miles east of Valentine to visit the nearby Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge. It is located on the beautiful Niobrara River, famous for canoeing enthusiasts. We got there just on 8am and disturbed some wild turkeys and enjoyed watching a herd of bison. We then headed north towards South Dakota, and marvelled at acre after acre of rolling grassy hills. They are actually the largest tract of stablised sand dunes in the western hemisphere and are held in place by the grass that covers them.

Final Days of Summer, North Dakota

Autumn leaves - time to farewell North Dakota
Inside St Mary's Catholic Church, Hague, ND

Altar Detail

Avalyn at St Mary's Old Cemetery

Iron Cross Grave Marker

This is the 3rd time we have driven away from North Dakota at the end of a summer of enjoyable RV adventures, and the 3rd time I have felt quite nostalgic as we drive the last few miles. When we first arrive the fields are bright green (or yellow (canola/sunflowers) or blue (flax)), but by the time we leave, the sunflowers' bright yellow faces are all but gone and most of the other crops are harvested. The rippling golden wheat fields are all mown down like crew cuts. Green grasses have lost their vibrancy of summer and many trees are starting to show fall colors.

Our friends Avalyn & Wes were fishing down near the South Dakota border, so we called in and spent our last 2 North Dakota nights in a campsite near them. Murray and Wes went out fishing and between the two of them caught the combined bag limit of 10 walleye. Nice too. While they were fishing, Avalyn and I drove to the nearby city of Linton (pop. approx 1000) for lunch, then drove 23 miles south to visit the historic St Mary's Catholic Church and iron cross cemetery in Hague. The church was built in 1929 after the earlier one burnt down. It was very beautiful inside. The cemetery was open for business from 1885 to 1914. The iron crosses were created by the German-Russian pioneers that settled in the area. The German influence is still very evident in the language, business names and local restaurant fare. We had an interesting day which ended with a tasty fish fry for dinner.

Rugby, Geographical Center of North America

Geographical Center North America

"Northern Lights"

Ornate Heater

Clifford 8' 7" (Photo courtesy: ameshistoricalsociety.org)

Some people may associate the name 'rugby' with a football game played back as early as the ancient Greeks, but here in North Dakota, it is a city famed as the geographical center of the North American continent. Not to be confused with the geographic center of the contiguous USA located in South Dakota, or the geographic center of the 48 states (ie omitting Alaska & Hawaii) being in Kansas. Phew! Glad I made that clear.

Anyway, in this city of roughly 3,000 folks they have a few interesting tourist attractions. The first and most obvious being a stone obelisk marking the 'center' at the junction of Hwys 2 & 3. Amazing to think this is the center of the USA and Canada. A few yards down the road from it is a tower built in tribute to the Northern Lights phenomenon, commoner in Alaska but sometimes seen this far south. What draws most crowds though is the Prairie Village & Museum, a historically re-created village of the 1800's with artifacts from the white settlers and the American Indians on display. Seeing the implements and buildings common to that time makes us grateful for the technology and luxuries we have today. North Dakota is known for its harsh winters, and this was bought home by the presence of a wood heater in every building, train car, and even in sleds for traveling across the snow. Most were just very basic, but others were very ornate. The museum had an area dedicated to locally born Clifford Thompson who was once listed as the world's tallest man. From parents of average height, he grew to 8ft 7". I'm sure he would be the star of a basketball team if he were alive today.

Devils Lake, North Dakota

Map of North Dakota. Red routes 2009. Yellow route 2007/2008. Circle current location
Grahams Island on Devils Lake

Raymond Sunset Fishing Devils Lake

Moon as sun sets

Campfire with Mark & Gen

Noughts & Crosses

Devils Lake, the town, was originally Sioux Indian land (they now own a large casino nearby) and was named after the largest natural body of water in the state of North Dakota. There is a lovely State Park located on Grahams Island surrounded by Devils Lake. We are staying at the campground here for 5 days, and fortunately, the weather has been glorious.

On our first full day here, the aunt & uncle (Almyra & Raymond) of a guy (Troy) we met at the ranch called in to visit. They both love to fish, so they picked us up and we headed to some rocks alongside the road across the lake. It was about an hour before sunset, and while those three fished, I clicked! The sunset was so beautiful. On one side of the road I had the sunset, and on the other side I had the moon. All three of them caught fish and they let us keep all the fillets which was nice of them. Another chap was fishing nearby, and he kindly contributed his catch to us as well. As well as the fish, Almyra and Raymond bought us some potatoes, onions & corn fresh from their garden. So thoughtful.

The next day after lunch, Mark, a family friend of Troy's and Mark's friend Gen called in to visit. They offered to take us for a drive around the area. I had invited them to stay to dinner, so I stayed back to set up for dinner and take a phone call from Australia and Murray joined them for a few hours. Within minutes of their return, the four of us were sitting outside sharing food, wine and coffee. The weather was delightful, so we lit our campfire and had the kuchen Gen bought for dessert. This area of North Dakota is renowned for its hunting (deer & pheasant) and Mark kindly gave us some trial sizes of game he had caught to try. There was a pack of several venison sausages, some ground antelope, antelope chops (de-boned) and venison tenderloin. Mark also offered us the use of an RV hook-up on his property. It seems that everywhere we go in this country, the locals are so friendly and generous. Each RVing adventure we undertake is a most enjoyable blend of scenic countrysides and wonderful people. No wonder we can't stop coming back each year.

This morning we got on our bikes and rode around the campground. We came across a clearing that had a noughts & crosses panel, so we stopped for a game. Then it was back home to turn on the BBQ and cook the antelope chops. Delicious. Tender and tasty. Thanks Mark!

Unforgivable Omission

Kim Born 21st August 1980

With Older Brother Benn

With Younger Brother Mark

With her Cat Bowie (& Peckle)

Celebrating her PhD Defence in London, Ontario 2007

With her mum & Darling Beautiful Aunty Ret Christmas 2008

My last blog entry elicited two comments: Firstly was that things must be tough if the most exciting event to write about involves an antenna. Secondly was a comment from my daughter. It so happens that the day I made the entry, 21st of August, was her 29th birthday. Yet I failed to even mention the 'momentous occasion' of her birth. So to make up for such a dastardly omission, I have decided to put some photos of her progression through life. I am sure she will kill me, but what the heck!

She is a geologist and is currently a Post Doctoral Fellow in the Earth Sciences Dept of the St Francis Xavier University in Antigonish, Nova Scotia. In November she takes up a post on the staff at the University of Copenhagen, Denmark. Visiting her is always an adventure as we get to see parts of the world we have never been before. Christmas in Copenhagen - hmmm, that sounds exciting. Not this year, but next year perhaps?

Adding Technology

TV Antenna Booster

Internet Antenna Booster

As you may have guessed, our favourite RV campgrounds are those situated on or near to a water feature, usually lakes. This often means that we are quite a distance from the nearest town. While that is one of the reasons we prefer the proximity to water, the downside is that our internet and TV reception can be quite poor.

In America RVing is a way of life for many people, so the companies that deal with internet and TV connections have a ready-made market for any gadgets that can improve reception. Fellow campers Trish & Dave suggested we take a look at a Winegard Wingman antenna. With 4 snap-on screws and 1lb weight, the antenna is designed to increase the range of digital TV channels - not only more channels, but less disturbance in transmission. Sometimes you get pixelation or voice drop out if the signal is weak. After researching this site (http://www.winegardwingman.com/) which even has a video clip and thought we would give it a try. For $32 it seems to be worth every penny - or should that be dollar? The staff at the RV store where we purchased it offered to take it back if we weren't satisfied with the outcome.

The internet is my main source of communication so it can be frustrating when researching a topic or doing a skype with family to have a slow connection. Although we have found that on each successive trip to the USA we find the signal strength of our internet connection to be stronger and stronger, and available in remote areas that once ha d no signal. Then again, if for the cost of $30 you can purchase an antenna that sits on top of your RV to improve the signal and improve it from 2 to 4 bars, count me in. For anyone considering to buy a similar item, a Magnetic Mount Antenna with 10' of cable was $20 and the USB Modem Adaptor was $10. We have a similar gadget back home in Oz, and it makes a big difference to our internet connectivity and sanity!

Wild Game Dinner

Setting the mood for the wild game dinner
Youth Pheasant Season (courtesy http://www.nodakoutdoors.com/ouroutdoors20.php)

Lining up for the wild game feast

All meals clearly labelled (yes, this was before the food came out!)

A bit of everything for starters...the bear is the darkest blob on the left

On our first night back at Audubon Lake campground, Avalyn & Wes invited us to join them at a local church fund raiser. They were having a dinner featuring a smorgasbord of wild game followed by an hour's entertainment by a local comedian, Milo. As everyone entered the hall, they put their name in a basket and during the evening, names were pulled out and everyone won something from a selection of gifts donated by community businesses. Avalyn won a Tshirt, Murray an insulated travel mug, Wes a camoflauge cap and I won $160 voucher for a martial arts course. As I am already at black belt standard (as if) I gave it back for them to pass on to a youth in the town. But typical of the area, although each child also won a prize, all the kids names went into a final draw for a .22 Ruger Rifle. It was won by a 10 yr old girl. The only rule is the parents have to accompany the child to pick up the rifle and have it registered. In the schools they already have driver-ed as a one-off subject in grade 8, and they are working on having gun-safety ed as a one-off subject too. In this region where hunting is a culture, they have a special school holiday on Fri 12 Sep to kick start the weekend for 14 & 15 year olds' first deer hunting season. They also have a dedicated youth pheasant hunting weekend on 3 Oct. These dates are for North Dakota - other states would have their own dates.

Now to the wild game feast. At least 100 people lined up and there was so much food left over. All of the food was donated. As the hunting season is not far away, people are clearing out their freezers ready for the new kills. They had no bear though, so they rang a friend in Minnesota and he went and shot a bear for the BBQ. I wish I could say the bear was nice and tasty, but to be honest, like most wild game, it can be tough, so needs to be either cooked slowly in a casserole or else slightly undercooked on a grill. I guess they had so much food to cook on the grill, or cut the meat up too small so that it overcooked. Either way, the bear was so tough it was harder to eat than beef jerky. Well, it may not have all been like that, but certainly all four of us had the same experience. As well as bear, we had elk, venison, wild goose, wild turkey, pheasant and buffalo. The volunteers did a wonderful job preparing and serving the food. Everything was well labelled so that you knew what was being offered. The creamed pheasant & pheasant hotpot were delicious. They also had these morsels called goose and pheasant poppers - it was a piece (about 1.5" square) of goose/pheasant, topped with a piece of jalapeno chili pepper, then wrapped in bacon & grilled on the BBQ. They were nice too. It was all free. They passed a donation basket around at the end of the evening though, and all proceeds went to the church. Win win.

Back on the Ranch, North Dakota

Wind Farm in Sunflower Field
Tractor with Bird's Nest (see yellow arrow)

Bird Nest with Egg and Hatched Chick

Boys & their Toys: replacing cutting blades ready for Murray to slash the hay

Taylor & Hayley feed the steers/heifers

Peach Kuchen with cinnamon on top

North Dakota Tan Lines

Adult Lemonade

You may recall we had a 2 day stop over with Clint & Amanda on a ranch in North Dakota last year. If you missed that blog entry, see the link at the bottom of this entry. It gave us such a unique experience that we returned to spend another 3 nights there. On the back roads to the ranch we passed a wind farm. My sister had sent photos of a wind farm they recently visited in Adelaide, South Australia, so I figured I should take a photo of those here in North Dakota - showing a foreground of sunflowers. It was 8.30pm when we were nearing the ranch, and the setting sun was hidden by clouds. We noticed a field of sunflowers had all their faces pointing to the east instead of facing the sun setting in the west. It turns out that most single-headed sunflowers face east ALL DAY. Other types move facing the sun but stop at a certain point then return to face the east. In one field we noticed all the heads facing one way except for one recalcitrant flower - a real non-conformist. You find one in every group!

Anyway, moving right along, we made it to the ranch and settled into our old spot and connected up to the power. We wandered up to the house and chatted with the family. For the next two days Murray rode a hay cutter tractor - in 36 C (95 F) heat - and enjoyed the experience once again. I stayed in the airconditioning either in our RV or the main house. I learnt a new recipe - Kuchen (pronounced cougan) - which is german for 'cake'. It has a pastry base and a baked custard filling dotted with fruit of your choice. The first one I had used rhubarb, the next used blueberry and the one I made used tinned sliced peaches. When I get home I will make one using black cherries. Nice to serve with morning tea or after dinner as a dessert with cream or icecream.

Many of you may have heard of the nasty winter experienced across the USA, but especially in the north. North Dakota was no different. The ranch got a whopping 110" of snow all up - the animals had to be housed in the barn or in close to the barn and hand fed. Two bulls that were alive when they fed them one night were both frozen dead in the morning. Now it is summer and they are out working long hours in the blazing sun. What a contrast. North Dakotan farmers have 2 tan lines: wrists (always wear long shirts in summer) and neck.

Lamb doesn't feature much in an American's diet, so Amanda (being an Aussie) appreciates being able to eat the sheep the ranch provides. Clint buys 4 sheep each year, the kids groom them for a few months, enter them in the annual state fair in July, then they are butchered for their freezer. We had our first feed of lamb since leaving Oz 5 months ago. Roast lamb - hard to beat! The twice baked potatoes were a great side dish to accompany the corn on the cob - fresh & sweet. Both nights we had freshly squeezed 'adult lemonade'. Half a dozen fresh lemons squeezed and pulped into a one gallon jug half filled with ice. Add sugar and 3/4 litre of vodka. Fill to the top with ice. Screw lid on the jug, wrap in a towel and shake lengthways for 15 - 20 mins (luckily they have 4 daughters to take a turn shaking) and serve. Just like fresh lemonade only with a punch!

Ranch Experience 2008: you can use your back arrow to get back to this blog