Sunday, September 14, 2014

Dublin, Ireland

Liffey River
Dublin is not only the capital of the Republic of Ireland but also the largest city of the Republic. It became the capital when the Republic of Ireland separated from the British Empire in 1922. Our tour spent 2 nights there. The city was founded as a Viking settlement in the 9th Century, although earliest references date back to 140 AD. Our hotel room overlooked the Liffey River, and we were in walking distance of the city and all that it has to offer. 






During our travels we saw several gypsy camps and some gypsy caravans travelling along the roads, but none as colourful as this one.













On our first night we attended an Irish cabaret and dinner. It was my most enjoyable entertainment of the whole tour. There was a most amusing Irish comedian, a harpist and some young and engaging dancers who combined Riverdance type dancing with such joie de vivre that it was all over far too soon. Even the food and wine was good.








We spent our first morning walking for hours in the city, checking out the historic Book of Kells in the Long Room of Trinity College and other interesting sights. The Book was written on vellum (calfskin) around 800BC and contains the four Gospels accompanied by lavish illustrations. The book attracts over half a million visitors every year. We found the Long Room of Trinity College almost as impressive as the Book of Kells - The Long Room is part of the Old Library built in 1712. Since 1801 the 'Library had been given the right to claim a free copy of every book published in Britain and Ireland' (http://www.tcd.ie/Library/bookofkells/old-library/). The books line the shelves right up to the ceiling. My collage of photos cannot possibly do the Room justice. 





Three of my beautiful Irish cousins
That afternoon one of my Irish cousin's came to meet us for the first time, and then the three of us walked back downtown to meet another two cousins for dinner. It was fantastic to meet these three sisters and enjoy a few hours chatting with them as we dined at an Italian restaurant. Such beautiful people. We had met their other sister and sister-in-law in other towns on our travels, and you may have read about them in a previous blog. 






The next morning we boarded the bus and then spent three hours on a ferry across the Irish Sea to Wales. It was our third ferry ride and the longest of all. The ferries are amazing - this last one had several decks to relax on, numerous cafes and bars, a large duty free gift shop, TVs, cinema and even a Truck driver's lounge. Very smooth and pleasant sailing indeed. 

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Ireland, Beautiful Ireland

After we left Belfast on our bus tour, we headed north west and followed the coast around and then down the west coast of Northern Island following the North Atlantic Ocean to the Republic of Ireland. We called into the town of Knock where in 1879, an apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph and Saint John the Baptist was witnessed by 15 people. Mother Teresa of Calcutta visited in 1993 and Pope John Paul 11 visited in 1979. The site gets 1.5 million visitors each year. A beautiful spiritual interlude.






As we drove around Ireland, from the north west corner, down south along the coastline, then around the Ring of Kerry and across the bottom, and right around and up the east coast to Dublin, we were in constant delight just looking at the scenery. It was as beautiful as we remembered from our week driving around staying at Bed and Breakfasts in 2003. Such a pretty, pretty country. The houses were so colourful, and quite a contrast from what we saw next in Wales. 










We saw so many derelict castles that we lost count. Our tour guide regaled us with stories of the history of many of them as we drove past - this castle (see photo) in particular was hosting a big dinner one fateful night, and the whole kitchen fell into the ocean. The only kitchen staff who survived was a very young boy who was in the far back corner of the kitchen,  turning the basting fork on the fire. 


We visited the wild Cliffs of Moher - not quite as wild and woolly as our previous visit there in 2003. Since our last visit they have created more walking paths and a wonderful display and visitors centre. Progress. 









The bus dropped us off at Blarney Castle for those who wished to kiss the Blarney Stone. We had done that on our previous visit, so instead of that, we spent time in the 'Largest Irish Shop in the World'. Lots of woollens, tartans, cashmere, crystal and souvenirs. Next door was a fabulous eatery - free WIFI, piping hot soup with crusty fresh bread rolls, scones with jam and cream and numerous other food choices. Yum. 





Another pleasant stop was at the Avoca Mill which was established in 1723 and is Ireland's oldest weaving mill, and is still in business. Just as you enter Avoca you see Fitzgerald's pub where Ballykissangel was filmed. Murray did the Avoca mill tour and took me back to show me the beautiful colours they were weaving with today. In another section they were in the process of making a rug or some other garment for the Queen. 













Another interesting stop was at the Waterford Crystal shop and factory. While it originally started as a business in 1783, it closed in 1851 and re-opened in 1941. It has changed premises since our previous visit, and I don't think it has the same character as it had before. We oohed and ahhed at the beautiful crystal, but walked out without buying anything. 200 Euro for one drinking glass is a bit out of our price range I'm afraid! History shows that Vikings were here in the city of Waterford in 873 - which was 915 year BEFORE the first British fleet arrived in Australia in 1788. 












While 99% of Ireland's countryside was beautiful in our eyes, it was the Dingle Peninsula that we loved most of all. So picturesque. No wonder they filmed 'Ryan's Daughter' there. It helped that it was a beautiful sunny day by the time we stopped in Dingle for lunch, but we remembered it favourably from our last visit as well. It didn't disappoint us! We heard later that my aunt's dear friend Celia was in Dingle the day we were there - it would have been great to have caught up with her there, had we known. Look at the beautiful scenery in the selection of photos below. 










Slea Head Drive around Dingle Peninsula

Beautiful Dingle scenery


Trying out an Irish Coffee for morning tea - hit the spot!
Peat was the traditional fuel for heating - see blurb above 
Beehive Huts
 These 'beehive huts' seen during our drive along Slea Head Drive are thought to date back to the 12th Century. One sign I saw said they were dated around 2000 BC. Unbelievable. Historical records indicate that Norman invaders forced local farmers to leave their more prosperous farms and reside in these dismal dwellings on the Dingle Peninsula. The nearby Dunbeg Fort is believed to have been built before 800 AD. Amazing history.








Another delightful stop on our tour was in the pretty seaside town of Tramore, just 20 minutes south of Waterford, and about 2 hours south of Dublin. My cousin Ellen took this photo of me putting my feet into the Celtic Sea, despite it being a very windy day. Her home overlooks this area. Thanks Ellen!










While in Tramore we also got to spend time in a traditional pub - host John Meade - originally established in 1703 and it has continued business as a pub right up until today.





















Our final stop in the Republic of Ireland was Dublin, but that needs a blog of its own!

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