The Plaza, Kansas City, Missouri

As you know we store the RV in Kansas City, Missouri, so we visit this area twice every year. We usually fly in, have the RV serviced and then drive off. At the end of our 6 months travel, we clean the RV and put it in storage for another 6 months and fly home. We stay in Independence which is about 15 miles East of Kansas City. This year things have been a bit different in that we didn't fly in, but were driven up from Arkansas by our friends Joe Bill and Sandy back in May. While we were with them we paid our first visit into the downtown area of Kansas City and visited the interesting Steamboat Arabia Museum - see this earlier blog entry. 

Then we had the good fortune to meet Sam and Lynn from Huntsville, Alabama. They are our neighbours here at the RV park and we accompanied them into the County Club Plaza in Kansas City. According to Wikipedia, The Plaza was the 'first shopping center in the world designed to accommodate shoppers arriving by automobile', and when it was established in 1922, it was architecturally influenced by Seville, Spain. That explains why we felt it reminded us of Santa Fe. The Plaza is not under the one roof like most plazas these days, but is actually a district area spanning 55 acres and is located 4 miles south of the downtown area where we visited a few months ago with Joe Bill and Sandy. The Plaza is lit up from Thanksgiving (fourth Thursday in November) until the middle of January each year, and is considered the most 'spectacular lighting display in the nation' (Wiki). 

Holiday Lights (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:KC_034.jpg)

Our visit to The Plaza was a Friday night, so we decided to go in at 4.30pm and avoid the rush. Ha. Even that early it was hard to find a park, but their nifty Jeep Wrangler had no problem squeezing into a parking spot - right in front of Tiffany's no less! We were all feeling a bit peckish, so when we sighted The Cheesecake Factory with appealing outdoor seating, we promptly made a beeline to the front door. It was a glorious evening, so the outdoor seating was perfect, and the ambiance was wonderful. With a chilled wine in hand and amid pleasant company, we sat back to enjoy the delicious food on offer. This year our two visit's to Kansas City have been our best ever. 

Sam Murray and Lynn where we parked in front of Tiffany's

Photo taken walking to dinner

And again...

Taken from The Cheesecake Factory outdoor area while waiting for our table

Sam Lynn Trish Murray 

Sam took this photo of Murray and I as we perused the extensive menu! Decisions, decisions...

Not so mighty Mississippi River

Regular blog readers would know my affiliation with the mighty Mississippi, so you can imagine my distress to read headlines such as the 'Not so Mighty Mississippi'! However, even I couldn't fail to see the effect of the drought on the mighty river. We have seen the river in flood and now we are seeing it very low, and parts of the river bed that are usually under water are now exposed.

Mississippi running on low - taken earlier this week as we drove over a bridge

Mississippi in flood St Louis 2007

I read in a recent news article that "The river drains water from 40 percent of the U.S. mainland. So, when the U.S. is in a drought, the big river isn’t so big. In profound contrast to the near-record floods of last summer, the giant barges that carry everything from high fructose corn syrup, to grain, coal and diesel fuel are at risk of running aground. Sometimes they do. "

Not only has the current US drought been the worst in 56 years, but last winter was so mild that areas up north that usually receive several feet of snow only had a few inches. Consequently there was minimal melting snow to add to the river's water level and now with above average temperatures coinciding with rainfall that is 8 to 12 inches below normal in the catchment area, it is no wonder that water levels are low. Last Friday, while we were camping on the Mississippi River over the bridge from Memphis, the river was so low that a passenger Steamboat got stranded at Memphis. Earlier in the month a barge was grounded further north. 

Despite all of that, the Mississippi is still a magnificent body of water, and together with a full moon, it provided the backdrop for this twilight photo of my son Benn and his girlfriend Daina during their last days in USA. Quite spooky really!

Benn and Daina with feet dangling in the Mississippi

Illinois 2012

Our last visit for this RV trip was to Freeburg, Illinois to visit friends Andrea and Randy. Randy was on a 12 month senior officer command course with me in Canberra in 1999 and we have stayed in touch. As well as catching up with them a few times in 2003 during my military posting here in America, we have also visited them during 3 of our 6 US RV trips. Randy is an Air Force Colonel (Security Forces) and Andrea is a school teacher.

Trish and Randy 

We only had an overnight visit with them, but we tried to make the most of it by arriving by lunch time and having lunch with Andrea. We just picked up a hot chicken and some fresh bread rolls on our way to their home, added sliced avocado and tomatoes from our fridge, and presto, a tasty lunch. Randy was at work, so after lunch Andrea drove Murray and I out to visit a nearby World Heritage site known as the Cahokia Mounds.

The Cahokia Mounds are the largest prehistoric Indian site north of Mexico. Murray and I have visited Indian mounds in other states before, but nothing on the scale of this one. Unbelievable! The Mississippi River was only a few miles to the West and it was a vital trade and agricultural center for the tribes of the time. This community constructed  'mounds' by piling dirt and then building dwellings on top for the more senior members of the organisation. The lower echelons had huts on the ground. Apparently this race had a complex social and political structure, with the 'leader' living on top of the highest mound of all. From the top of the 'Monks Mound' (today there are 156 steps to get to the top) which has a footprint of 14 acres which makes it larger than the base of Egypt's largest pyramid  They also had a version of Stonehenge called Woodhenge. Their 'sun calendar' was erected with wooden posts that were aligned with the rising sun of the Spring and Fall equinoxes, and the Winter and Summer solstices. Amazing.

Artists recreation of the Cahokian Woodhenge

Cahokia became the regional center of all the tribes living up and down the Mississippi River in what are now the states of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Louisiana and Mississippi. As well as the physical mounds that you can see as you drive around, there is a comprehensive interpretive centre that houses many artefacts recovered by archaeologists since excavations began in the area. Entry is free, but donations are welcome. I read that the mounds were originally discovered back in 1811 by a historian who was exploring the surrounding prairies, but no one was interested at the time. My understanding is that the area was re-discovered during excavations for a highway interchange and it was eventually listed as a National Historic Landmark in 1964.  Archaeologists continue to work on the site (4,000 acres) and their findings are displayed and preserved for us all to appreciate. 

According to a website (http://www.cahokiamounds.org/learn/), "the city of Cahokia was inhabited from about A.D. 700 to 1400. At its peak ... 10,000 to 20,000 people lived here." Historians can't explain what happened to the Cahokians, but the area was apparently abandoned around 1300 AD. There has been no evidence of anything catastrophic happening or of any disease epidemic. Thoughts are that drought or decline in the available resources could have forced them out of the area, or a challenge to leadership being another suggestion. We watched a 15 minute video about the area which was very informative and helped us gain a better appreciation of the physical displays we saw. The Center has done a fantastic job displaying the items as well as showing a typical archaelogical dig site listing each item and its use. There is also an impressive replica of a section of the village with full-size Indian adults and children carrying out typical activities of the time. If you are ever near St Louis, this area is only about 10 miles East over the Mississippi River from St Louis, and well worth a visit.

Andrea and Trish in front of Cahokia photo

On our way back home, Andrea drove us past the world's largest catsup (now known as ketchup) bottle! It was built in 1949. The steel tower is 100 feet tall and the bottle on top is 70 feet high. Randy was waiting for us at home, and we walked across to a nearby Mexican restaurant for a huge Margarita and a nice dinner. The next morning we headed West to Kansas City to store the RV and fly home once again. Hopefully to enjoy another RV USA adventure again next year!

World's largest ketchup bottle

Elvis's Graceland

Nine years ago Murray and I visited Elvis's home 'Graceland' in Memphis, Tennessee. While Benn and Daina were visiting we got the opportunity to visit there again, and enjoyed it even more, as now there are even more exhibits to see. We timed it well, as if we had been a few days later, our visit would have coincided with the 35th anniversary of Elvis's death. As the area attracts tens of thousands of fans who gather at Graceland to commemorate the event, I prefer to be long gone. When Elvis bought Graceland in 1957 the home was on the outskirts of Memphis, but now, given it is less than 10 miles (15 km) from downtown Memphis, it is part of suburbia. 

Because we beat the rush, we were able to get a camp site at the Graceland RV park which is located across the street from Graceland itself and just metres behind Heartbreak Hotel on Lonely Street! It was so convenient to be able to walk the short distance to all the Graceland exhibits and shops (which were on our side of the street), which we did over two days. For $35 a night, we had water, electricity, sewer, cable TV and wifi - but best of all was the close proximity to all the Elvis action. The Heartbreak Hotel provided a free shuttle downtown provided you went to a Sun Music Studio tour, otherwise they had an hourly shuttle direct to Beale St for $5. The shuttle was full when we wanted to go, so rather than wait an hour, the four of us grabbed a cab. 

No trip to Graceland would be complete without doing a tour of Elvis's house itself. We each bought a $32 ticket which got us the tour of Graceland, entry to a tour of the airplane 'Lisa Marie', and entry to 4 other exhibits including his historical '68 tour and Elvis's Automobile Museum, plus displays of his flamboyant outfits. The tours are very well organised. To tour Graceland, as you get on the shuttle bus they issue you with recorded narrated information that you listen to via a headset. It describes each room of the house as you walk through, and provides a narration for the other display areas as well as the graves. You can stop and start the recording as you wish, or press different numbers to get more information on items. Very well done. The shuttle literally drives across the road and drops you at the front door. The house is kept as it was when Elvis lived in it from 1957 to 1977. Quite eccentric for the era, but then, Elvis was bigger than life! After all, he was The King. He died in Graceland - found unconscious on his bathroom floor in the early afternoon of August 16th 1977 at age 42, and was unable to be revived. The coroner's report stated he died from a cardiac arrhythymia. According to something I read in a book written by his ex-wife Priscilla Presley, Elvis was on the verge of cleaning up his act and was searching for a project to get him motivated, loose weight and get off his medications. Sadly he never made it. 

(Courtesy http://www.bl.uk)

In the grounds of Graceland, behind the house, are the graves of Elvis, his parents and his grandmother, and a plaque for his twin brother who died at birth. August 16th marks the 35th anniversary of Elvis's death and thousands will pour into Graceland to mourn the loss of the 'King'. A candlelight vigil begins at 8.30pm on the 16th and tens of thousands are expected to file past his grave. I'm glad we got to see the grave with only a few others around. We had time to reflect on his life without being surrounded by pulsing crowds. His 25th anniversary drew around 40,000 people to his grave, if  that gives you any idea of how hectic it will be. 

Elvis's grave in the backyard of Graceland

We spread our visit over two days, but a real aficionado would need several more days to take it all in. There are numerous shops full of Elvis souvenirs - on the expensive side mind you, but fun to browse through and see how creative they have been putting Elvis's name or photo on everything from mugs to clothing to recipe books to Christmas ornaments etc. For those of you who know me well, NO, I didn't buy a Christmas ornament! 

On our last evening with Benn and Daina we caught a cab into Beale St in downtown Memphis, and started with a few drinks at the Irish Pub 'Silky O'Sullivan's' before moving on for an appetiser at an upstairs balcony in another pub overlooking Beale St. We finished up with ribs all 'round at B.B. King's Blues Club and Grill, listening to B.B. King's support band belting out the tunes (B.B. King wouldn't be appearing until the first week in September). The next day we all walked back to the Graceland shops and displays for one last visit before Benn and Daina caught the airport shuttle to the Memphis airport, and flew back home to Sydney. On our last night in Memphis, Murray and I walked across the road to get a night-time view of  Graceland which had tastefully coloured lights around the house and hidden in trees on the front lawn. It was so wonderful to have Benn and Daina's company, and for them to share and experience our RV lifestyle for 11 days.

Daina and Benn in front of Graceland

Lounge Room looking into Music Room and his Grand piano

The Billiard Room had walls decorated in fabric

Daina Benn and Murray checking out Elvis's Gold Record Collection

Just a few of hundreds of his outfits on display

Daina got her photo of one of Elvis's car collection - many more cars inside the Museum

Benn and I with Elvis's 1955 Pink Cadillac that he gave to his mum when he hit the big time

Benn and Daina about to enter the 'Lisa Marie'

Benn Daina and Murray in Beale St, Memphis

Benn and Daina - All Aboard

On 28th of July we were thrilled to welcome my eldest son Benn and Daina (his long-suffering girlfriend of 7 years) to join our US RV travels. My daughter Kim has taken two short trips with us in the RV around London, Ontario and again in Nova Scotia, an older brother and his wife have also done a short trip with us in Florida, and my aunt and younger sister spent almost 3 weeks travelling with us through Missouri, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana, so it is great to have some other family members along for the ride. Now when they read the blog they have a better understanding of our RV lifestyle over here. 

Benn and Daina are rather adventurous people, interrupting their day job of flying A330 Airbuses around the world for Qantas by enjoying pursuits including scuba diving, hiking up Kilimanjaro, parachuting, and currently planning a rickshaw race in India that goes for 2 weeks over a course of  3,500 km (2175 Miles). So on day 1, we drove from Minneapolis up to Lake Superior in Duluth, Wisconsin and while I was planning a leisurely dinner and campfire for the early evening entertainment taking their jet lag into account, Benn had other ideas. He rode a pushbike 1 mile to a nearby marina where he hired a pontoon. He texted us to bring his camera gear and some wine on ice, and to meet him at a dock located at our campground. What a great start to our time together. We had a few delightful hours enjoying the sunset and the passing scenery as we quietly motored along the waterway. 

Daina and I waiting for Benn with the pontoon

Benn Daina and I pose for the photo

Murray keeps the Captain refreshed

Land ahoy!

Drifting as the sun sets

First dinner - after Benn returned the pontoon

First campfire of the trip

Over the following 10 days we left the state of Minnesota and drove the whole length of the state of Wisconsin, then across the breadth of Illinois, and crossed the Mississippi River into Iowa. We then drove south and entered Missouri and passed through Mark Twain's hometown (Hannibal, Missouri) on the Mississippi River, an area which inspired his novels The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. In Arkansas we found a delightful campground in West Memphis, just across the river from Memphis, Tennessee and with only a 20 minute drive to Elvis's home of Graceland. Our campsite in Arkansas was right on the Mississippi River, and it was so amazing for the 4 of us to have a chilled beer in hand, and to just sit and watch the laden barges go downstream to New Orleans or return empty on their route north to St Louis and other ports. Given that Benn and Daina flew into Los Angeles, California, and out of Dallas, Texas, all in all they touched 9 USA states.  Not bad for an 11 day visit!

They both got to drive the RV - back in Australia you need a truck driver's license to drive a 32' RV, but not here in America. Murray and Benn did the bulk of the driving during their visit, but Daina and I were invaluable with our contribution. Actually if I recall, Daina copped the worst road of the trip - narrow and curvy. As well as getting a bird's eye view of the RV lifestyle, they also became aware of some of the limitations, including the fragility of RV systems and accessories. We have a very effective generator on board which allows us to pull over at a rest stop and brew coffee or use the microwave, and even run the main cabin air-conditioner during really hot days. As luck would have it, the generator kept cutting out, and despite a full service of the generator before they arrived, and then replacing a circuit board while we all waited, it appears the generator needs a new fuel pump. As we had already wasted enough time on it, and we would have had to wait another day for the new part to arrive, we decided to forge ahead and we would get it fixed after they left. Consequently, given the daily temperatures of close to 100 F (38 C), it got unpleasantly hot in the main cabin, and we learnt very quickly to put some beers in the freezer for an hour before we were due to pull into a campground. As soon as we were plugged to power, on went the cabin air-conditioner, and out came the beers. We usually only drove 4 hours a day, so that limited our discomfort. 

Benn about to drive off with Daina navigating

Now Daina's turn to drive - Benn suggesting she pull to the left

At one lunchtime stop Daina made up a version of 'Pigs in Bankets' (spicy sausages wrapped in bread pastry then baked in the oven) that I found in my RV cookbook. After demolishing them, we went to check out the lake and Daina noticed these wild strawberries growing. Before she ate one, she conferred with Benn and Murray to see if they were safe to consume. We all ended up eating them - delicious.

Daina making 'Pigs in Blankets'

Daina showing Benn and Murray the wild strawberries

Benn decides they are safe enough to eat and picks some more

We all tried these sweet morsels

Despite the warm evenings, we couldn't resist having a campfire whenever we could. A bundle of firewood usually cost around $6, and it was often augmented with some kindling and other logs gathered by Benn, Daina and Murray (I was usually busy inside preparing dinner). The moon was in full glory during their stay, which added to the ambiance. 

A campfire later in the trip under a full moon

I had booked Benn and Daina into a motel for the first night of the trip on Lake Superior as I wanted them to have a chance to check out the bedding option in the RV before they were committed to sleeping in it. The lounge pulls out to a double bed, and just by adding the 'egg shell' foam from our bed, it made for comfortable sleeping. In the beginning Murray made their bed up while we were still out chatting by the fire, but they took over later in the trip. They obviously weren't with us long enough to get cabin fever, as even though they had the perfect opportunity to stay in a hotel on their last night, I think they had got used to their RV environment and chose to stay with us. It certainly made their visit much more enjoyable having them sleep in the RV, and we all managed surprisingly well with our 24 hr a day togetherness! 

Bed made up for the night - all the curtains closed and blinds down

A repeated pleasure we had was finding campsites right on the banks of the Mississippi River. The best one was the one in Arkansas that I mentioned at the start of this blog. There were seats along the river's edge where we could sit and watch the barges, and even as we sat inside at the dining table to eat dinner (it was like a sauna outside), we could still watch the river traffic (all barges) pass by our campsite.

Daina about to join the guys to watch the barges on the Mississippi 

Another barge goes by...

The next morning we crossed the Mississippi River and found ourselves south of downtown Memphis, and within 20 minutes we had arrived at our final campground of their visit, Graceland RV Park. More on that in the next blog.